Restaurant Evaluation: Oriana in NYC

Source link : https://big-apple.news/2026/07/09/new-york-news/restaurant-evaluation-oriana-in-nyc/

Oriana, the title, first crops up in literature as a time period of reward. The Triumphs of Oriana is a Seventeenth-century assortment of madrigals — multipart, a cappella tributes — all devoted to the glory of Elizabeth I. The title doubtless alludes to the solar, from the Latin oriens (“rising”), a generally metaphor for the queen. Within the 4 centuries since, Oriana has bobbed largely beneath the floor of the historic file. Hark! It rises but to christen a grand eating room in Nolita.

This Oriana, all 5,000 sq. toes of it, leans into the celestial associations. The institution’s sun-and-moon emblem is generously deployed, etched into discs of soppy yogurt butter and onto the sq. faces of the ice cubes in company’ cocktails. However the laudatory sense is right here, too: Oriana has a hidden-in-plain-sight patron. The restaurant’s financier, and the constructing’s proprietor, is tech entrepreneur and investor Kevin Ryan.

Oriana’s public-facing proprietors are its chef, Andy Quinn, and its sommelier, Cedric Nicaise, longtime collaborators who met within the trenches of Eleven Madison Park and run the Noortwyck, a West Village treasure whose Michelin-starred bona fides don’t stand in the best way of burger specials on the bar and a completely glorious roast rooster. There’s a really good rooster at Oriana, too, smoked over cherrywood and nesting on a sodden slice of sourdough price its bronzy weight in schmaltz. There’s even pretty much as good a…

—-

Author : big-apple

Publish date : 2026-07-09 18:43:00

Copyright for syndicated content belongs to the linked Source.

—-

12345678